Canyon Falls, Cinnamon Rolls

I spent the night being terrorized by mosquitoes. At first, I blamed the ceiling fan vents — but those have never let bugs in before, anywhere I’ve stayed. Then it hit me: they must’ve been trapped in the garage after I took that outdoor shower back at the national forest. I’d drift off thinking I’d squashed the last one, only to wake up to that primal, high-pitched hum — that tiny sound that flips the sympathetic nervous system switch humans have probably carried for thousands of years. It’s amazing how something that weighs nothing can keep you awake all night. I woke early, wanting to leave this boondocking location.

Hilltop Restaurant

I visited the Hilltop Restaurant in L’Anse, MI and ordered the western omelette — a three-egg monster breakfast that kept me full for hours. I also bought one of their famous cinnamon rolls, which was bigger than my hand. The Hilltop is a local landmark that’s been known for its giant, gooey cinnamon rolls for decades — people drive from all over the U.P. just to grab one. They bake them fresh daily, and each roll is soft, sweet, and practically a meal on its own. It’s the kind of place where you see loggers, road trippers, and families all gathered around plates that don’t skimp on comfort food.

Canyon Falls

I made it to Canyon Falls about ten miles south of L’Anse around 9 a.m. There was just one other car in the parking lot — my favorite kind of start. I don’t see this hike on a lot sites.

The short hike to the falls isn’t far from the parking lot, which makes it ideal for anyone who wants to park, stretch their legs, grab a photo, and be back in the car without much effort. The area is managed by the Michigan Department of Transportation and the Baraga County Road Commission, since the trailhead sits right off US-41 in what’s often called “the Grand Canyon of Michigan.” The trail itself is part of an ongoing research project through Michigan Technological University, and they’ve done a great job protecting it by putting down sturdy boardwalks. Water can flow underneath and the plant life is spared from getting trampled.

The trail is incredibly lush, full of diverse vegetation. There’s that fresh smell of damp earth and decaying wood — that true north woods scent. Small streams twist along the path, flowing over moss-covered rocks. I spent extra time just looking at the tiny flowers, ferns, and the vines creeping up tree trunks.

Closer to the river, the terrain gets rockier, yet the trees seem to grow right out of the stone. The roots twist and reach out in every direction, sometimes looking like the insides of some giant creature spilling out over the rocks.

The Sturgeon River is wider upstream but begins to narrow as it approaches the falls, with the water pushing through the gorge at a good clip — it averages about 75 to 150 cubic feet per second, depending on rainfall and snowmelt. When it plunges over the falls, it drops about 15 feet into a rugged canyon of dark slate and sandstone, which makes for dramatic views and a lot of mist after heavy rains.

It was incredibly peaceful for a few hours — just the rush of water and the dragon fly taking a bath — until the crowds started showing up closer to noon. I headed back just as the sky turned darker and a soft rain began to fall. Protected by the forest canopy, I hardly got wet. Heavy rains were forecast but never really materialized — just another perfect reason to linger in the woods a little longer.

Laundry and Walmart

Back at the van, I booked a visit to the Copper Mine near Houghton, MI and headed in that direction and hour away. I needed to do laundry and found Loads of Fun Laundry just outside of town. I’m not sure how much fun it was, but it was a very modern and clean Laundramat. This took a few more hours to do everything. Just down the street, I was staying at a large Walmart, with multiple parking lots. There was a section in the back where other campers were located. I pulled in, and noticed that some of the campers seemed to be there permenatly. They were unhitched and had supports under the corners. I went shopping and found all the products that most grocery stores don’t carry. Walmart has definitetly up the produce quality, and the selection.

It was almost 11 when drifted off. Walmart was closed, and there was almost no noise from outside, and there were no more mosquitoes in the van.