Explore the journey — one trail, museum, meal, and memory at a time.

Jewel Cave

Jewel Cave

My Black Hills day began with a Jewel Cave tour, where a ranger guided us deep into the underground world of crystals, geology, and history. From there I headed to Custer State Park, caught Kevin Costner’s Spirit of Tatanka film, and went for a bike ride past deer, pronghorn, buffalo, and a plaque about South Dakota’s first poet laureate, Charles “Badger” Clark.

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Crazy Horse Monument and Buffalo

Crazy Horse Monument and Buffalo

A morning at the Crazy Horse Memorial offered history, art, and the powerful story of Crazy Horse and the Ziolkowski family. In the afternoon, I drove Custer State Park’s Wildlife Loop, where I found myself in the middle of a massive bison herd, surrounded by cars and animals moving as they pleased across the plains.

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Fort Meade

Fort Meade

Fort Meade is where the daily playing of The Star-Spangled Banner first began, a custom that spread across the Army and helped establish our national anthem. I spent time exploring the fort, photographing Bear Butte at sunset, and walking through Black Hills National Cemetery in golden light — three places that carry the weight of history and memory in the Black Hills.

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Sturgis & Belle Fourche

Sturgis & Belle Fourche

The Sturgis Motorcycle Museum & Hall of Fame brings motorcycle history to life with custom bikes, early models, and the inspiring story of Mary McGee. A short drive north, Belle Fourche marks the Geographic Center of the United States with a monument and a local history museum. Two stops, one theme—South Dakota’s deep connection to heritage and adventure.

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Badlands National Park

Badlands National Park

From Cold War history at the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site to the rugged beauty of Badlands National Park, my day was packed with contrasts. I wandered the chaos of Wall Drug, stood above the Delta-09 missile silo, and hiked the Badlands at golden hour. History, kitsch, and landscapes all came together in one unforgettable loop.

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Chase Lake and Frontier Village

Chase Lake and Frontier Village

My trip to Chase Lake National Wildlife Refuge didn’t go as planned—the main access road is closed until further notice due to unsafe conditions. I made it within a few hundred yards of the refuge only to find the road underwater, so no bird photos this time. Instead, I turned south to Jamestown, where Frontier Village and the World’s Largest Buffalo turned out to be a quirky mix of prairie history, roadside attractions, and a concrete beast that’s been watching over travelers for more than 60 years.

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Knife River Indian Villages

Knife River Indian Villages

Two reset days in Dickinson gave me time to regroup before heading north to Knife River Indian Villages. Walking among the mounds where Hidatsa earthlodges once stood, I could almost picture the families who lived here, farming, trading, and gathering along the rivers. The history was rich, the reconstructed lodge gave it shape, and the trails made it real. My day wrapped up with a not-so-smooth attempt to book a campsite at Lake Sakakawea.

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Drive to Walford City
Travel Journal, Van Life Greg Ott Travel Journal, Van Life Greg Ott

Drive to Walford City

A long day’s drive across North Dakota took me from quirky roadside Americana — the W’eel Turtle in Dunseith, built from more than 2,000 discarded car wheels — to the oil-and-farm country near Watford City. Along the way I saw the stark contrast between the state’s two economies: endless fields of corn, soybeans, and sunflowers on one side, and oil rigs punching into the prairie on the other. By evening, I rolled into the north side of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ready to settle in for the night.

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