Harrisburg, PA, Civil War Museum, Tröegs

Rainy Night at the Cracker Barrel Inn

Sleeping in the van during last night’s rainstorm was surprisingly soothing. The steady rhythm of raindrops on the roof wasn’t loud or jarring like it might be on corrugated metal—it was more like the gentle murmur of a stream. Maybe the insulation all around the van helps dampen the harshness (pun fully intended), turning it into nature’s white noise machine. I slept well.

I woke around 7:30 and started my day with a hearty bowl of oatmeal—topped with blueberries, a banana, a handful of omega-3 trail mix (cranberries, raisins, walnuts, almonds, and seeds), a splash of almond milk, and a drizzle of maple syrup. A little email skimming, a bit of writing, and by 9:00 it was time for my ritual espresso.

A hundred feet away, the sounds of the morning shifted from raindrops to air tools. Another guest of the Cracker Barrel Inn had a flat tire on his 30-foot travel trailer. He’d called in the pros, and while they brought all the right tools, the tire change turned into an hour-long pit stop. Not sure what took so long, but I guess even with power tools, trailers have their own agenda.

Pennsylvania Capital Complex

I didn’t get to tour the entire Pennsylvania Capitol building as I had hoped, which was a real disappointment. Still, even a partial visit offered a glimpse of its grandeur. The architecture is truly striking—an opulent blend of Renaissance and Beaux-Arts design that makes the entire structure feel more like a European palace than a state government building.

The dome alone is breathtaking. Inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, it rises majestically above the skyline, capped by a statue that stands like a guardian watching over Harrisburg. From the ground, the symmetry and ornate details are stunning—an impressive reminder that this is more than just a place of legislation; it's a monument to civic pride.

Different states use various names for their capitol buildings—State Capitol, State House, Capitol Building, Legislative Building—but Capitol Complex was a new one for me. Unfortunately, despite the building being open, public access was limited to the main entrance area. Unlike other states where you can often explore the upper galleries and rotundas freely, here you couldn’t even climb the grand staircase. And with guided tours unavailable on this Saturday, I had to settle for admiring from the edges.

Still, even that small glimpse inside was enough to appreciate the craftsmanship. Marble columns, intricate murals, and gold leaf accents make the interior as majestic as the exterior suggests. It left me wanting more—and planning perhaps a return trip one day.

I walked the grounds for an hour and captured shots of the area.

National Civil War Museum

Taking the advice of a friend, I visited the National Civil War Museum in Harrisburg—about a 15-minute drive from the city center. I’ve recently read The Killer Angels by Michael Shaara (which won the Pulitzer Prize for History) along with the two follow-up novels by his son, Jeff Shaara. Those books, along with others I’ve read over the years, gave me a solid foundation and made exploring the museum even more meaningful.

Along the way through the exhibits, I came across signs highlighting notable “firsts” in wartime history. One that stood out was the first widespread use of standard sizing for ready-made clothing—a change that began during the war and continued into everyday life afterward. It made me think about what it must have been like when every article of clothing had to be tailor-made.

Bite The Bullet

One of the most powerful displays featured “pain” or “hospital bullets”—lead bullets with visible teeth marks. These served as physical evidence that soldiers literally bit down on bullets during surgery or in moments of extreme pain. It is the origin of the phrase “bite the bullet.” Also at the time, bleeding was still seen as a valid medical treatment—ironically weakening patients instead of helping them recover..

I had never seen the layout of a Civil War prison before. One particularly sobering display featured a sketch by Union Private Thomas O’Dea of a prison camp in Andersonville, Georgia, which in 1864 held over 35,000 prisoners. The men were essentially walled in with minimal shelter or supplies. The South, already struggling to feed its own army and population—often resorting to scavenging—had little left for the prisoners. One placard quoted Walt Whitman, who, after seeing prisoners return from Belle Isle, asked, “Can those be men?”

Having read about many of the battles, visited numerous museums, and walked battlefields from Gettysburg to Vicksburg, I’ve seen a lot of plaques marking historic events. But walking through this museum, what struck me most were the personal stories of individuals I’ve heard about but never fully understood. One of them was Harriet Tubman.

Born into slavery in Maryland, Tubman worked the fields and cared for her owner’s baby. If the baby cried or she missed a chore, she was beaten. Eventually, she escaped slavery and became a key figure in the Underground Railroad, guiding more than 70 people to freedom. She later served the Union Army as a scout, nurse, and spy, operating in the swamps and lowlands of South Carolina and Florida. Her resilience and bravery are almost beyond comprehension.

After Lee’s surrender at Appomattox, VA, Jefferson Davis fled the capital and gave a rallying speach that fell on deaf ears.

“We have now entered upon a new phase of the struggle. Relieved from the necessity of guarding particular points, our army will be free to move from point to point and strike the enemy in detail far from his base. Let us but will it, and we are free.” — Jefferson Davis

Lincoln’s Legacy and Booth’s Breaking Point

Gettysburg Address

Tröegs: A Pint After the Past

After visiting the National Civil War Museum, I made the 25-minute drive to Tröegs Independent Brewing for a bite and a pint. The parking lot was only half full, but inside was packed. I parked near a school bus—maybe a wedding group?—and stepped into a lively, buzzing space.

Despite having a full waitstaff, a long line wound through the restaurant to order beer. I decided to keep it simple and ordered fries. They were perfect—crispy, low on salt, and served in a generous portion. I was handed a buzzer with “74” on it, which lit up and buzzed ten minutes later. By then, my spot had been taken by a family with two babies.

I moved outside to the patio. It was cold, but the wind died down and the overhead heaters kicked in just in time. A waiter came by quickly, and I ordered a chocolate stout—smooth, rich, and a safe bet since IPAs mess with my sinuses. I paid with Apple Pay and kicked back for a bit.

If you’re in the area—especially with a group—I highly recommend making Tröegs part of your experience. The space is open and lively, the beer list is extensive, and the food hits the mark. It's located just down the road from Hersheypark and the Giant Center, home to the largest RV show in North America. Whether you're a beer lover, a foodie, or just someone looking to soak in some local flavor, this spot is worth the detour.