Explore the journey — one trail, museum, meal, and memory at a time.

Paper Tickets and Desert Highways

Paper Tickets and Desert Highways

A quarter tank of gas feels very different in rural eastern Oregon. Driving north from the Painted Hills toward Pendleton, I stopped in Spray at an old-school gas station running on trust, paper tickets, and ancient equipment. Later, over lunch in Long Creek, I met a man named Al whose stories ranged from Harleys and prison time to caring for his daughter through cancer.

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