Gitchi-Gami Bike Trail

It was Monday morning and I was parked in Two Harbors by the Railroad Museum. Actually, I parked beside a large steam locomotive. The location was in iOverlander 2. It was a large parking lot for all the businesses by the lake. I was surprised how quiet it was for a Monday morning.

I pulled down the hill a bit towards the water and the iron ore loading station, where the massive Iron Ore Docks tower over Agate Bay in Two Harbors, Minnesota—a striking reminder of the region’s industrial legacy. Built beginning in the late 1800s to serve the booming iron mining industry, these docks were once part of a network of six that funneled ore from Minnesota's Iron Range onto Great Lakes freighters. The most prominent remaining structure stretches over 1,300 feet in length and rises nearly seven stories above the water, featuring more than 100 gravity-fed chutes that could rapidly load ships with thousands of tons of taconite.

Originally constructed of timber, the docks were later rebuilt with steel and reinforced concrete to handle larger ships and heavier loads. Still active today and operated by Canadian National Railway, the docks remain one of the last of their kind and a dramatic symbol of the town’s connection to iron ore shipping on Lake Superior. It reminded me of similar iron ore docks I had seen in Marquette, Michigan—both towns shaped by the same history of mining and lake transport. I took a few photos of the docks, the tug boats stationed nearby, and the lighthouse in the distance. The smoke and moisture hanging in the air didn’t make for the best images, but the scene still held a quiet power—part industrial grit, part Lake Superior calm.

On the other side of the bay, the Two Harbors Lighthouse stands, and has been guiding ships on Lake Superior since 1892, making it the oldest operating lighthouse in the state. Built of red brick with a square tower, it now also serves as a bed-and-breakfast and museum, offering visitors a chance to stay in a piece of maritime history while enjoying views of Agate Bay.

I hung out in the van for the most part, watching the scene unfold through the windshield. Birds skimmed across the water, small boats drifted in and out of view, and workers rumbled past in trucks along the shoreline. The docks didn’t appear to be in use, but their hulking presence still defined the waterfront. I snapped a few photos outside the van, and now and then, someone would stop to chat—drawn in, maybe, by the van, or just the kind of day that makes people pause and connect.

I read more about the towns along the coast and then prepared to migrate further north. I left around 1 pm and the first thing I need to do was grab a coffee. Along the way, I had to stop a shot of the city hall building. Google maps indicated that Cedar Coffee Company was highly rated and not far away. It was outside of town, which seemed odd to me, and down a dirt road. As I drove, I wandered why they didn’t open along Rt 61 through the center of town. When I arrived, there were cars in the parking lot. There were two connected building housing a bicycle shop and the other was the coffee shop. From the number of people in the shop, it was clear that location wasn’t impacting their business. I ordered a medium latté and a chocolate coisant. Later I wished I had take tow chocolate coisants.

Gitchi-Gami State Trail

I wanted to ride the Gitchi-Gami State Trail (a paved bike trail). It runs along Minnesota’s North Shore of Lake Superior and will eventually stretch 88 miles from Two Harbors to Grand Marais. Although it’s still under construction, with about 33 miles completed, you can already ride several scenic segments, including a 14.6-mile stretch between Gooseberry Falls State Park and Beaver Bay that passes right through Split Rock Lighthouse State Park.

I parked at wayside parking lot about four miles south of Split Rock State Park. There were about 20 spots and I took one of the last spots. There were fly fishermen coming down the hill from a lake, several hikers heading back up the hill and a family with bikes, The daughter had a University of Vermont tshirt on (she was probably 10). I asked if they were from VT. They weren’t but parent had just accepted jobs there and were on their way cross country to start their new life. She was a theropist and would be working with patients online. He was an athletic trainer and just accepted a job at the University of VT. Our path would cross several more time on the Gichi-Gami trail.

I set off to do a 15 mile loop. Immediately, I realized that this was not going to be a flat ride out and back. The trail runs parallel to parts of Highway 61, and offers sweeping lake views, rugged shoreline, and access to state parks, making it a great ride even in its unfinished state. At least near Split Rock State Park, the trail is very hilly. I would estimate 8% grade for several of the hills. I made it north about 5 miles and it was starting to rain with very dark clouds in front of me. I turned around and pushed the speed trying to avoid getting completely soaked.

The rain gently came and went and I avoided a total soaking. I headed back to the wayside stop in near Schroeder. It was after 6 pm and I made something to eat. I was now raining and would continue to rain throughout the night.