Traverse City: A Trail Day
For some reason, I was worried about staying in Traverse City. I was mostly worried it would be overcrowded, that I wouldn’t find a place to stay, and that getting around would be a headache. It turned out everything was just the opposite.
In fact, this has been one of my easier stays. I parked at the Cracker Barrel on North Country Drive—about 5.5 miles from downtown Traverse City. Meijer, the big grocery chain around here, is only 1.5 miles closer to downtown. They let you park in their lot and shuttle into town—or in my case, ride the bike path that runs right in front of the store. It’s a nice, easy four-mile ride straight into town.
I made French toast for breakfast and rode into town, first stop: Good Harbor Coffee and Bakery. I told the cashier I was expecting a long line and she said, “You just missed it.” I ordered a medium latte in a porcelain cup, and as I waited, a line started forming out the door. I snagged a table on the street and just sat there people-watching—one of my favorite ways to start the day.
I made French toast for breakfast and rode into town, first stop: Good Harbor Coffee and Bakery. I told the cashier I was expecting a long line and she said, “You just missed it.” I ordered a medium latte in a porcelain cup, and as I waited, a line started forming out the door. I snagged a table on the street and just sat there people-watching—one of my favorite ways to start the day.
Today was all about riding the trails around Traverse City and checking out the Cherry Festival that’s happening all week—bands, parades, exhibits, kids’ events, an air show, the works.
I rode around town first, just to get my bearings. I stopped at the visitor center for a trails map, then headed out Peninsula Drive along the Grand Traverse Bay. It was about a 10-mile ride before I turned back. The homes along the water were beautiful—lots of wealthy summer places, I’m sure. It reminded me a bit of the Outer Banks or Cape Cod. Some of the houses really stood out: modern but warm, smart design, gorgeous color palettes, all manicured and perfectly placed. Living there must feel so effortless. Most were perched on the east side of Highway 31, so the owners had to cross the road to get to their private slices of beach.
On the way back, I stopped at the Jolly Pumpkin Restaurant & Brewery, which sits up on a hill with views of the water. It was noon and I was ready for a bite. The hostess recommended the arugula salad with grilled chicken—great choice. I spent about an hour there, relaxing, eating, and sipping on a cranberry juice while looking out over the bay.
Back in the center of town, I wandered through the exhibitor stalls at the festival. Ironically, I didn’t see any cherry pie, tortes, or anything particularly cherry-focused. Mostly it was food vendors and local businesses showing off their stuff.
I explored a few of the shorter trails before stopping at Mundos 305—a big downtown coffee shop. I ordered an espresso and a croissant, and it came with a side of sparkling water. For a minute, it felt like I’d landed back in Europe.
Recharged, I rode the four-mile loop around Boardman Lake. To get there, I meandered through some side streets in the old town to get a feel for the neighborhoods—lots of beautifully maintained homes with lush green lawns.
After a few wrong turns, I finally made it to the Boardman Lake Trail. It circles the whole lake—mostly paved, with sections of compacted gravel and some raised boardwalks over the water. There are trail bridges that link different parts together. I stopped plenty of times to just soak up the views. I watched two older boys jump off a bridge—right under a big “No Jumping” sign. A friend was filming them, and a homeless guy egged them on, yelling, “Just jump, it’s 20 feet deep there!” A bit farther down the trail, I saw a young mom struggling with her son’s bike chain. The kid couldn’t have been more than four years old. I stopped to help, pulled out my neoprene gloves, and showed her how to turn the pedals to get the chain back in place. They were both so grateful—it was one of those little moments that just makes a day feel good.
After I wrapped up the trail, I rode back to the van, packed up, and hit Meijer to stock up on groceries. This place was huge—seemed like they carried everything under the sun.
Planet Fitness was right around the corner, so I squeezed in a quick weight session and grabbed a shower followed by a 10 minute wonderful session in the message chair.
By then it was pushing 9 p.m., so I headed back over to Cracker Barrel for a second night. The place was already closed when I pulled in, but two other overnight guests were there too. Perfect end to a day on two wheels.