Cycling Through Grand Teton National Park
It was my second day in Grand Teton National Park, and the temperature had dropped below 30°F overnight. When I opened the side door of the van, the early morning sun was casting a warm orange glow across the campground. Somewhere in the woods behind the van, I could hear a moose calling. Not a bad way to start the day.
I spent some time organizing my cycling gear before heading out. Just beyond the campground, cars were parked along both sides of the road. A moose was feeding nearby, and everyone seemed determined to get a photograph. Traffic had come to a stop, so I grabbed my camera and managed eight shots while waiting for the cars ahead to move. One of the nice things about national parks is that they encourage you to slow down. Sometimes you don't have much choice.
It was nearly noon when I drove toward the trailhead for the ride I had planned. The route started near the airport, headed toward the mountains and eventually continued through the park. Unfortunately, the starting point was inside a private development with no-trespassing signs and nowhere to park legally. So much for that plan.
I was close to the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center and decided to stop. The cycling information I'd received from the ranger wasn't particularly helpful, but I spent about 30 minutes wandering through the exhibits and reading about the park's geology. The enormous mountains outside are impressive enough, but understanding how they formed makes the landscape even more interesting.
Back at the van, I had a light lunch and worked out another route. The morning chill was long gone, but I wasn't in any particular hurry, so I relaxed for a while before heading to the new trailhead. Unfortunately, construction had closed off the parking area. After a little more searching, I found a place to park at a nearby golf course. By then, the temperature had climbed to nearly 70°F. Perfect weather for a fall bike ride, assuming I could actually get started.
It was already after 3 p.m. when I finally got on the bike. I'd hoped to ride about 30 miles, but I wasn't concerned about distance or speed. I just wanted to spend a few hours cycling through the valley and enjoying the scenery. The route was relatively flat, with wide-open views of the mountains and stretches of brilliant yellow aspens. I modified the route several times as I went along, occasionally stopping to look around or take photographs. There were also a few warnings about wildlife on the trail, a reminder that cyclists aren't necessarily the ones with the right of way around here.
I stopped at Dornans to replenish my drinks, picking up a Smartwater and a Vitaminwater before continuing.
On the return ride, I was moving along at a comfortable pace and happened to glance at my bike computer. I was doing about 18 mph, which I thought was pretty respectable considering I wasn't pushing myself. Just then, a young woman flew past me as though I were standing still. She was incredibly fit, riding with the smooth, effortless power of an Olympic athlete. I watched her disappear up the trail. It was impressive.
By the time I reached the van, it was after 6 p.m. I'd been out for about three hours, with plenty of stops along the way. The late afternoon sun was now shining through the aspen trees, turning their yellow leaves almost golden. I stopped several more times to photograph them. With the mountains in the background and the sun dropping toward the horizon, it was difficult to put the camera away.
What had started as a frustrating search for somewhere to park had turned into a wonderful afternoon on the bike. I hadn't followed my original route, and I hadn't worried about how far or fast I was riding. I was simply glad to be out there.