Chippawa Falls and Leinenkugel Brewery

I stayed at a Harvest Hosts site about 20 miles south of Chippewa Falls. The host is also a Boondockers Welcome “Hall of Fame Host” who’s been traveling in a van for decades. Now in her 80s, she still hits the road and generously welcomes others to her property. On this night, five rigs were parked—mine and four fifth wheels. She invited all of us for blueberry cobbler with vanilla ice cream at 8 p.m., BYOB.

It was a great night of swapping travel stories and hearing about all the issues people have had with fifth wheels made after 2017 (note taken). Everyone had their favorite destinations and tales of what to avoid. One couple was working full-time on the road—he had a late-night meeting, she had an early one. Another family was traveling with two kids (10 and 20), both homeschooled, living full-time in a 46-foot fifth wheel. He was a web designer, and she researched land deeds for a real estate firm that had no idea she was on the road. They use a VPN to appear as though they’re still based in New Jersey. We talked about everything under the sun, and before I knew it, it was after 1 a.m.

I woke around 9:30 to the sound of doors slamming and diesel engines firing up. The big rigs were packing up—those 40-foot setups that need 50-amp hookups and water. It was impressive watching the amount of work involved in getting them road-ready. Meanwhile, I just checked a few cabinet latches, turned the key, and I was good to go.

After my usual oatmeal breakfast, I wrote for a while and topped off my water tank using the farm’s hookup. I had originally planned to visit Chippewa Falls the day before, but it didn’t happen. Today, I was finally making my way there—only about a 25-minute drive. I rolled into town just after noon.

Chippewa Falls

First stop: the Information Center and Chamber of Commerce. The staff there couldn’t have been friendlier. One woman handed me a town booklet and a map and gave me a list of things to check out. She patiently answered all my questions, and I left with a solid plan for the afternoon.

Lunch came first. I walked down Bridge Street, the town’s charming Main Street, and stopped at Mahli Thai. I ordered the red curry with tofu. Despite having the hardware, they didn’t take Apple Pay—and oddly, no chopsticks. But the food was excellent: fresh vegetables, firm tofu, and a flavorful curry that didn’t tip over into fire alarm territory. I kept the spice level low—it was already hot outside, no need to turn lunch into a sweat lodge.

Afterward, I wandered Bridge Street, reading historical plaques and admiring the architecture. The commercial district is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and it shows. One plaque described the original post office and federal building served as the region’s communication hub long before phones reached this far north. I walked and just captured some of the old brick building around town.

I was struck by the architecture of the Edward Rutledge Charity Building—the detailed brickwork, tall windows, and solid presence made me pause and imagine what life must have been like in this town at the turn of the 20th century. A plaque in front of the building tells the story of Edward Rutledge, an Irish-born timber cruiser who rose to become vice president of the powerful Chippewa Lumber and Boom Company. Under the mentorship of Frederick Weyerhaeuser, Rutledge became a wealthy and influential figure in the region’s booming lumber industry. I found it fascinating that an immigrant from Ireland could come to America and rise to such prominence through hard work and opportunity. After the death of his wife Hannah in 1910, Rutledge funded the construction of the Hannah M. Rutledge Home for the Aged, which opened in 1913, and established a charitable foundation that still supports community causes today. The building itself, designed by architect W.J. Kingsley and completed in 1917, remains a historic landmark and a lasting symbol of his generosity and vision.

Seymour Cray Jr.

My Harvest Host mentioned that Seymour Cray started his company near Chippewa Falls, which surprised me—I had no idea this quiet Wisconsin town played a role in computing history. A few others casually dropped the Cray name throughout the day, like it was common knowledge around here. I knew the name from the 1980s, when Cray had a big presence near Boulder, Colorado, and was building the world’s fastest supercomputers. Seymour Cray was a legend—famous for his circular computer design with built-in bench seats. The shape wasn’t just cool—it shortened wiring paths and improved cooling. Standing in Chippewa Falls, it was wild to think this small town helped kick off a revolution in high-performance computing.

Olson’s Ice Cream

Eventually, I stopped in at Olson’s Ice Cream, a local staple since 1944. I picked Dulce de Leche, which made me curious—why an Argentinian flavor? I asked the girl behind the counter, then mentioned that Dulce de Leche comes from Argentina. She didn’t know that, and didn’t seem to understand that a flavor could originate from another country.

I continued past the post office and found the Mason Shoe Outlet Store on North Bridge Street. No-frills, just rows of discounted shoes—work boots, walking shoes, sandals, slippers, and lots of socks. Mason has been a local name since 1904, originally a major manufacturer in the region. Their outlet is still a go-to for practical, well-priced footwear. I picked up a pair of socks (25% off) and a pair of thongs—the sandal kind, not the scandalous kind.

Leinenkugel Brewery

I made it to the Leinenkugel Brewery around 3:15 p.m. and learned the next tour would begin at 4. While checking in, I asked if they were a Harvest Hosts location. The woman at the desk didn’t know what that was, so I explained the program. She called her manager, who called their manager. They found the idea interesting and said they’d look into it. In the meantime, they told me I could park there overnight.

The tour was solid and came with a pint. I went with a stout and took some photos inside the “Leinie Lodge.” The place had a cozy, Northwoods ski-lodge vibe. While waiting for the bartender, I struck up a conversation with a guy next to me. We started chatting about beer and travel. I pointed to a spinning sign featuring a Hefeweizen and asked if they had it on tap. He said it was his favorite, but they didn’t make it anymore. That led to a great conversation about European beers, changing tastes, and travel through Germany and the Czech Republic.

Eventually, he smiled and said, “Maybe I should introduce myself—I’m Matt Leinenkugel.” I laughed and shook his hand. He asked what I wanted next, and I went with a light ale. I also asked for a dinner recommendation. He suggested the Sheeley House Saloon.

I headed there around 7 and grabbed a seat at the bar. The place had a warm, laid-back feel, and I was greeted right away. I ordered the grilled Brussels sprouts and the house burger with lightly salted fries. The guy next to me was a bartender who hops around to different local spots. He knew the place well. The bartender on duty was a math teacher by day and was knocking out Manhattans like a pro. The whole place smelled like orange zest and bitters. Weird, but wonderful.

I got caught up watching the two bartenders play a dice game between rounds. I think it was called bar dice—a Wisconsin thing, apparently. Locals love it. There’s a rhythm and camaraderie to the game that’s fun to watch.

Naturally, I was the last one out. Ended up deep in conversation with the guy next to me about camping and van life. He was new to it and full of questions. I told him about my setup and some of the places I’d been. One of those conversations where time just disappears. I drove back to the Leinenkugel parking lot for a quiet night.