Wausau, WI
I stayed one more night at the quiet little spot in the woods near Bayfield (GPS: 46.7980835, -90.9597245). I woke around 7:30 but dozed off again for another 30 minutes — it was Saturday, after all — before finally pulling myself out of bed. Birds were chirping all around.
I started getting the van ready to roll, but when I turned the key, nothing happened — the battery was dead. I immediately realized I’d left the parking lights on overnight. When I pulled in last night, another van was already parked in my not-so-secret, secret spot, and while I thought I’d turned the lights off, I must not have turned the dial all the way. Lesson learned.
I pulled out the Ford Transit Van manual and my GooLoo jump starter, which I’d never used before. After about 30 minutes of flipping through both manuals, I hooked up the jump starter and heard some clicks and beeps — a good sign. I climbed into the driver’s seat, and everything lit up. The van started right up.
Just after I disconnected the jump box, a truck slowed and pulled in beside me. A guy, probably in his early 20s, had seen the hood up and asked if I needed help. I explained the dead battery and told him I’d jumped it with the GooLoo. He and his girlfriend were out chasing bear — literally. His brother was in the back with three hound dogs. The truck was barely holding together: rusted-out fenders, a bed rebuilt with 2x4s and painted plywood. We talked for about 20 minutes. They had driven three and a half hours from near Wausau to search for bear. One had crossed the road in front of me last night. As we were chatting, another truck passed and called them up on a walkie-talkie. “Hey, you going camping or bear chasing?” I told them I’d let them get on with their Saturday. They wished me well and said it was fun talking.
With everything packed up, I headed south toward Wausau myself and stopped for gas in Washburn, about 20 minutes away. I filled up at a Circle K, then turned back and went to North Coast Coffee Shop in Washburn, WI — and I’m so glad I did. The place was buzzing with conversation, and as soon as I walked in, the woman behind the counter smiled and said, “What can I get you?” I ordered a medium latte and one of the flakiest pain au chocolat pastries I’ve had in a long time. While I waited, several locals greeted me with a warm “Good morning.” They all seemed to know each other. I got back on the road, well-caffeinated and wishing I had picked up a second pastry.
Mercer
I had a 3 hour and 45 minute drive ahead of me and avoided the interstates, sticking mostly to Wisconsin Route 61. I passed through Mercer, WI, a tiny town with one main street, but full of activity. There was a bike and walking trail running through town, and I could see ATV riders kicking up dust on a nearby trail. As I passed the end of town, I noticed a small yoga studio called Rooted Soul Yoga and wished I could have stopped by.
Manitowish Waters
Manitowish Waters, a well-known recreational area in northern Wisconsin, was bustling as I passed through. It’s the kind of place that clearly comes alive in the summer, with lakes dotting the landscape and resorts tucked back from the road. You can tell it's a popular destination for vacationers — there were signs for boat rentals, fishing guides, supper clubs, and outdoor outfitters everywhere. Even just driving through, the town had that relaxed, cabin-weekend energy. It’s the kind of place that seems to invite you to slow down — or stay awhile.
Wausau
I reached Wausau, WI around 1 p.m. and stopped at the Leigh Yawkey Woodson Art Museum. There was plenty of parking, so I made a sandwich, had a yogurt, and followed it up with a quick espresso. Sculptures lined the back garden and walkway to the entrance, including several bronzes and a wall of big, blooming hydrangeas that filled the air with fragrance. While the museum is known for its paintings and sculpture, I was there to see the two photography exhibitions.
Hmong Portrait Exhibition
Double Exposure: Community Portraits by Hmong American photographer Pao Houa Her is a powerful and intimate exploration of identity, displacement, and resilience within the Hmong American community. Her portraits, carefully staged with friends, family, and neighbors, reflect the complex legacy of the Hmong people—many of whom were recruited by the CIA during the Vietnam War. Notably, children were often used to gather intelligence on Viet Cong movements, a haunting reality that shaped the trauma and migration of an entire generation. After the war, thousands of Hmong families were forced to flee Laos and resettle in places like Wisconsin, where vibrant communities have since taken root. During Her’s residency, the museum became a working portrait studio, with local Hmong residents photographed amid personal and cultural objects, creating a living, evolving record of identity and memory. The result is an exhibition that is both visually striking and emotionally resonant, shedding light on a little-known chapter of American history through the lens of lived experience.
Animal Photography (Sacred Nature)
Presented by wildlife photographers and conservationists Jonathan and Angela Scott, Sacred Nature explores the profound connections between humans and the natural world. Through stunning images featuring wildlife in landscapes from the African savannah to the jungles of Asia, the exhibition highlights both the beauty and fragility of ecosystems—urging environmental stewardship through compelling visual storytelling.
It runs June 7 – August 24, 2025, alongside Double Exposure, and is currently on view at the museum.
Center for the Visual Arts (CVA)
From there, I headed over to the Center for the Visual Arts, a local gallery that constantly rotates its exhibitions. There are four separate gallery spaces, each with something different. At the entrance, a collection of photography was on display. One piece stood out — it looked more like abstract art than photography, and I’m still curious about the technique behind it.
When they were preparing one of the gallery sections, they discovered a hidden vault from the building’s former life as a bank. It’s now been cleaned up and stands as an art piece of its own.
Upstairs was an exhibit of winning works from the state’s high school art competition. These students brought serious skill and tackled some powerful issues. It wasn’t just art for art’s sake — they were thinking about real things. One of my favorites was “What the Duck?” a very clever ceramic piece by a high school student.
Exploring Downtown
Since I was already downtown, I wandered through the area. Wausau has a Central Park where they hold weekly summer concerts, and a nice revitalized shopping district with cafés, restaurants, boutiques, and one of the best children’s book sections I’ve ever seen inside a local bookstore (Janke Books). I stopped at Downtown Grocery — a healthy grocery store filled with local produce, meats, and of course, cheese. I picked up some cheddar, wine, and gnocchi for dinner.
Later, I drove up to Rib Mountain to scout some photo spots. I found the ski resort, but the gates were already closed. I wasn’t in the mood for a hike, so I drove around getting a feel for the area. There are a lot of trails, waterways, and picnic areas. People here seem to spend a lot of time outside — at least in the summer.
Uncommon Pints
By 7 p.m., I made it to Uncommon Pints, a taproom close to my Harvest Host for the night. A live bluegrass band was just starting up as I pulled in. A young guy on a Harley from California arrived at the same time and grinned as he held the door open for me. “After you,” he said.
I ordered a Swartzbier #24 from their rotating tap list — they feature around 30 beers from small Wisconsin breweries — and headed outside. The band, with a mandolin, upright bass, acoustic guitar, and banjo, played with relaxed energy. They were surprisingly tight, probably local. A small crowd had set up camping chairs out back, dogs lounged in the grass, and folks chatted over pints. The whole scene had a casual, backyard feel — easy to see why it’s a local favorite. The taproom used to be a bank, and now it’s a cozy, dog-friendly beer garden with trivia nights, live music, and even pup cups.
I sent a message to my Harvest Host, and about 15 minutes later JD arrived. We chatted about all kinds of things, mostly travel. He loaned me a copy of The MILEPOST 2022: Alaska Travel Planner. I’ve heard of it, but had never actually seen one.
Around 9 p.m., I made my gnocchi, had dinner, and spent some time online. It had been a long, full, and very good day.